Q: What is included in your fireplace install kits?
A: Our installation kits include the appropriate amount of mortar, full firebrick and/or split firebrick (as ordered) for your fireplace plus a damper. To view the amount of each of these accessories provided for each of our fireplace models, click here.
Q: What are the clearances to combustibles for your fireplaces?
A: The National Fire Code requires all combustible material to be at least 6 inches from the opening of the firebox. For every 1/8 inch of protruding combustible material, you must account for an additional inch of clearance. To learn more about clearances, click here. To view FireRock product specific clearance, click here.
Q: What are the specs for your pre-engineered masonry fireplaces?
Q: Is the 16” clearance for mantles required no matter the size (depth) of my mantle?
A: The 16” published clearance to combustibles for mantles assumes a standard 8” depth – a 2:1 ratio. The reason for this height is to ensure the heat coming from the front of your fireplace and moving upward into your room, has enough space to escape before hitting the combustible mantle material. If your mantle protrudes into your room less than 8” it creates a smaller shelf and therefore does not need as much room to disperse the heat. Therefore, using the 2:1 ratio, a 4” depth mantle would require an approx. 8” clearance, and so on. As always, we recommend you consult your builder and/or installer in making this decision as air flow in homes are impacted by many environmental factors, so please use the above ratio as a guideline vs. a rule.
Q: Can your wet-cast pavers be used indoors and outdoors?
A: Yes. FireRock Pavers can be used both inside and outside the home. Our finishing process adds depth and texture to create the look of natural stone. To see examples of our paver applications click here.
Q: What sizes do your pavers come in?
A: FireRock pavers come in the following sizes for our 7-piece pattern: 12 x 12, 12 x 18, 12 x 30, 18 x 18, 18 x 24, 18 x 30, 24 x 24 and the following sizes for our 3-piece pattern: 6 x 6 (three pieces), 6 x 9 (eight pieces), 12 x 12 (one piece)
NOTE: 1/2" grout line included with all sizes
Q: Do your pavers get hot in the summertime when exposed to UV rays?
A: Per accredited 3rd party testing, FireRock pavers have been tested for their Solar Reflectance Index, which is a measure that is used to calculate surface temperature. The higher an SRI value (scale of 1-100) the lower its surface temperature will be. It is calculated using the following values:
All 4 FireRock paver color options exceed the LEED minimum for hardscaped surfaces (29 SRI) with values between 52 (Ore) and 93 (Oyster)! Not surprisingly, lighter colored surfaces will stay cooler than darer colored ones.
Q: Should your pavers be sealed?
A: Yes! We recommend you seal our pavers immediately following installation. We carry and sell the full line of SEK Surebond products.
Q: How can your pavers be cleaned?
A: Our pavers can be cleaned with a diluted multi-purpose cleanser like SEK Surebond. To learn our 4-step paver cleaning technique, click here.
Q: Will my pavers still stain after your sealer has been applied?
A: Staining is a possibility even after sealing, especially if the pavers come into contact with substances such as oil, coffee, red wine or other food and beverages. To minimize the likelihood of staining, spilled substances should be removed as soon as possible and pavers kept clean of debris and dirt build up. Should staining occur, FireRock offers a variety of SEK Surebond cleaners that are compatible with our product. Those cleaners include Stain & Rust Buster, Oil Extractor and Sure Clean, which is a deep penetrating multi-use cleaner.
Q: Can you make _________?
A: Most likely: Yes! We have a skilled team of steel experts to assist you - you dream it and we can build it!
Q: How much does it cost?
A: Steel Doors & Windows are costly, there’s no doubt about it, but the “wow” factor a steel feature unit can add to a home is unparalleled. A pair of French doors (6’0”w x 8’0”t) typically ranges from $7,000 to $12,000 depending on the profile system and manufacturer.
It’s important to realize that while prices can vary widely, savings up front can quickly erode: lower-quality units often require costly maintenance, and a surprising number will need to be replaced in 3-5 years due to rust, warping and air/water infiltration. Furthermore, it can be difficult to compare quotes because few are “apples to apples”. While FireRock units can be factory-glazed (glazed = with glass installed) and fully finished with an option for installation, many manufacturers offer frames-only, requiring contractors to source glazing and installation services on their own, incurring additional costs.
Q: Can my contractor install it?
A: In most cases, yes! French doors and small- to mid-sized windows can be installed like a pre-hung door, and we can customize each unit to match your wall conditions to ensure a straightforward installation process. Large units and complex units like sliders, bi-folds, and accordions require experienced installers to navigate a more involved process. In those cases, we recommend working with our experienced installation teams for best results.
Q: What is the best way to optimize my dollar with different sized slates?
A: Longer and thicker slate tiles can be significantly more expensive than shorter, thinner tiles. While the options are truly infinite for combining different sizes and thicknesses, sticking to minimum head lap specifications can help manage materials costs. A graduated roof (thinner pieces toward the roof peak, thicker pieces toward the roof eaves) is another way to achieve a heavy, robust look at a lower average price. It won’t be right for every architectural style, but for cottages, mountain homes and rustic styles, a graduated roof can be a show-stopper!
Q: How many color options do you offer your slate roofing in?
A: Slate is never artificially colored. Its color is determined naturally by geological conditions at its formation. Just as slate from different regions vary in durability, it will also vary in color. Slate also varies in its color retention. Some slate is very consistent or “non-weathering” while some exhibit new shades of color over time and are known as “semi-weathering”. Shown here are colors found in Vermont quarries.
Slate’s natural colors can be mixed in endless combinations to create a particular hue to match a design or environment. There are computer simulations for slate color selection. Depending on the intention of the designer, the positioning of the building to viewpoints, and surrounding geography, the roof can become an important visual element.
Q: How does the look change between a 24" and 18" shake?
A: The main difference between a 24” and 18” shake roof is the exposure, or the amount of each shake that’s visible on the completed roof. A 24” shake can be installed with a maximum 10” exposure, whereas an 18” can have a maximum 7.5” exposure. The smaller exposure creates a thicker, more rustic-looking roof, which is often exactly the aesthetic cedar-lovers are seeking!
Q: How does look change between medium and heavy shakes?
A: Medium shakes have a butt-thickness of ½”, whereas Heavy shakes are ¾”. As a result, Mediums tend to look more streamlined and slim, whereas Heavies are more rustic and robust. For homes that feature natural stonework and rustic elements, 18” or 24” Heavies are the way to go. For homes with brick or limestone facades and more formal elements, 24” Mediums may be more appropriate. Note that when it comes to value engineering, Mediums will be less expensive than Heavies, and the savings from using 18” shakes instead of 24” can be quite significant: as much as 25-35%!
Q: What are the differences in grades of wood?
A: The most common grades of wood include:
• Character: knotty appearance, grain/stain discoloration, checks in the face, from interior of the log
• Select: more refined, formal finish, tends to come from outer portions of the log
• #1 Common: prominent color variation, knotty, open checks, worm holes
• #2 Common: more prominent color variation, more knotty, more open checks, more worm holes
• #3 Common: very prominent color variation, very knotty, many open checks, many worm holes
Q: What is the difference between engineered and solid hardwood flooring? Which should I use?
A: Engineered hardwood flooring is made of a veneer layer that sits atop a core of plywood. This construction deals with moisture a bit better and is recommended for concrete slab subfloors. Solid hardwood flooring consists of thick, solid planks milled from a single piece of wood. It can be repeatedly sanded, and can last for decades. But because solid hardwood is natural, it is suseptible to temperature and humidity changes. The choice between engineered and solid hardwood will most likely be determined by location, subfloor and preferred installation method. Click here to read more about choosing the right wood flooring for your space.